Vinologue: A Wine, Food, Travel and Video blog

Wine-making 101 - Olivier Merlin speaks about his experience with the '08 vintage as well as shares some thoughts on making white vs. red wine.

2010-08-31T06:50:00.000-07:00

Shot with the intimate, existing light in the cellars of Olivier Merlin in the Macon (Roche Vineuse). I really enjoyed his comments. He and I were talking shortly after the 2009 harvest. So, in this footage he explains a bit about the previous vintage, 2008, that we were tasting at the time.

Wine-making 101 - The early stages of handling (white) grapes in the cuvery of Francois Mikulski

2010-08-30T16:02:00.000-07:00

I really enjoy this footage of the grapes just arriving in the winery (that we just picked that afternoon). It shows the early step of pressing the (Chardonnay) grapes to make the juice that will be fermented into wine.

Paris Restaurants open on Sunday, Monday or both days

2010-08-24T17:19:00.000-07:00

You may well know that finding a good restaurant open on a Sunday or Monday can be quite challenging in Paris. Below is a simple list of ones that I have had the chance to experience and have enjoyed knowing that they are open on either of those two days. A $ means the restaurant earned a Michelin "Bib Gourmand" notice in the recent past; dining at very good value for the money. Given what can be a "window of greatness" for any restaurant, I suggest searching for the most recent reviews before you go!

PARIS

A et M - Monday $ - Certainly at lunch this was the businessman's place to be. Menu is rather traditional but with some style and flair. Service and setting is crisp and pleasant. I enjoyed a Tête de veau en terrine there that was out of this world.

Angelina (Hot Chocolate!) - Open seven days a week 12-3pm. One of THE Paris temples for hot chocolate and sweets

Au Coin de Malte. Open Sunday. Super simple, inexpensive food in a home-like setting. In the 11th Arrondisement

Au Bon Accueil - Open Monday. $

Al Taglio - Open Sun. When you need a change; trendy gourmet pizza by-the-slice and great Italian dried meats.

Baron Rouge Wine Bar - crazy-ass wine-bar

Boullion Camille Chartier - Open sevens days a week 11:30-10pm. Rivaling the beauty of Bofinger this is a stunning example of a brasserie from the late 1800's

Bofinger - $ Open seven days a week. One of the great remaining Brasseries in Paris, though some may consider it a little long-in-the-tooth. Beautiful to visit once though.

Brasserie a la Bierre - Super, simple budget brasserie; cheap and good

Bread and Roses - One of my favorite places in Paris for a lovely breakfast and lunch. Closed Sunday

Gloü One - closed Tues. Well located (directly behind the Picasso Museum) its a fun, moderne, trendy place with like clientele as the owner is a hip wine-centric fellow well respected in the Paris wine scene. One of the few cuvinets (wine preservation systems) that I saw anywhere in Paris. As such, wonderful selection by-the-glass, served fresh and at the proper temperatures. One of the best that you may find open in the neighborhood (the 4th) on Sunday and Monday.

Kitchen - simple, super healthy place for lunch; an oxymoron by Paris restaurant standards.

Le Temp au Temp - $ - CLOSED

Le Cebbar, Klay Club - an uber-hip restaurant in THE hip health club in Paris.

Le Garde Robe - One of the most serious wine-centric "Bar a Vin" that I found in all my searching in Paris. Serious offering of organic/Nio-Dynamic/natural wines selected with thought and care. Open 9-6pm Monday thru Saturday.

Louis Vins - Just opened in 2005, but made to feel like an older Paris establishment, the place has a good vibe, decent food, and a nice selection of wines. All positive for a restaurant opened seven days a week from 12-10:30 seven days a week, especially on located in the 5th.

Le Train Bleu - Under management of the Alain Ducasse group, the restaurant is a landmark, even by Paris standards.

Sensing - Refined dining and setting. Super hip, modern hi-tech interior, but does not distract from Guy Martin's sophisticated cooking (former Grand Vefour chef). Open Monday dinner

Unusual oak barrel design seen in a cellar in Burgundy

2010-08-21T08:41:00.000-07:00

This is an oak barrel that was deigned/manufactured with the principles of bio-dynamic (wine-making) in mind:

Travel

2010-08-08T12:26:00.000-07:00

Twenty years ago I thought of all the airlines, that the stewards and stewardesses of United Airlines were a bit surly, nearing retirement and bitter. Today the young employees from back then are unfriendly, nearing retirement and bitter!

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Video footage from France: Assessing the effects of different barrel makers, a wine-lab in Beaune, and a wine-label printing facility in Savigny-les-Beaune

2010-08-06T11:21:00.000-07:00

With a line-up of 18 bottles (approximately four wines), I "try" to contribute my observations about how the barrels made by different coopers and "toasted" differently, effect the wine after about 9 months in the respective barrels:

At the "Centre de Oenologique de Bourgogne" in Beaune, we speak with the Director who gives an explanation of studies and services that are on-going and available to vignerons. One is to specifically help a vigneron determine the potential for and causes of premature oxidation in their white wine. He explains techniques and hi-tech analytics that can pinpoint problem stages in a vigneron's wine-making process. This includes tests that isolate the problem to the corks for a better case when discussing with the cork producer (who ofter continually insist that it is not their problem!) Another study is scientifically looking at the optimal point for picking Pinot Noir to achieve desired aromatic and flavor profiles.

Printing factory: Jacquelin Freres in Savigny-les-Beaune. Loud, rough/raw footage, but a cool look behind the scenes of the process of printing wine-labels:

Wine-making 101, a very unusual barrel shape used during fermentation and aging

2010-08-03T17:30:00.000-07:00

After the harvest last fall I took the opportunity to visit other Domaines in Burgundy. On this visit I am in the cellars of Domaine de la Vougeriae in Nuits-St.-George. The assistant wine-maker, Claudine Combier, shows and explains to me an egg-shaped barrel! I have seen inox and concrete fermentation vessels in oval shapes, but never an oak barrel:

Its 10 am Paris time.jpg

2010-08-02T01:17:00.000-07:00

Never a bad time to start I guess...
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Wine-making 101, the early stages: Harvest 2009, grapes being received into the winery (s), Cote d"or,France.

2010-07-31T15:47:00.000-07:00

Fun footage from two Domaines receiving their grapes from the vineyards during he harvest 2009. I am currently in France (Burgundy). With the next harvest only about 2 months away things are looking good again for a positive push to the end of the growing season (troubled at the start, but good weather has helped it to "catch-up"):

Wine-making 101, the early stages: In the cellars of Domaine Mikulski following '09 harvest, Meursault, France.

2010-07-29T14:29:00.000-07:00

This footage was shot in one of the cellars that Francois uses to ferment the Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes harvested early September 2009. Growing season was great and the conditions leading up to and including harvest were terrific; so it has the makings of a good vintage:

On the ground France, July 2010: WineGuyLA Live, Raw and Uncut

2010-07-27T14:32:00.001-07:00

Street performers: Paris and Trieste

2010-07-16T10:54:00.000-07:00

These two performers, caught on city streets in Europe; different in the genres of the art they express, were none-the-less, umm, intriguing:

'86 Cali Cab, mini-smack-down

2010-06-30T23:41:00.000-07:00

Last night a friend and I pitted two 1986 California Cabernets against each other over a dinner of pan-roasted veal chops. One the surface it perhaps was a little one-sided given the pedigree of the single-vineyard Diamond Creek. And, it was...

Over grilled shrimp, we opened the evening with Champagne Tarlant, Cuvee Louis. Pinot and Chardonnay 50/50. Disgorged in '07 after 9 years on its lees.

'86 Johnson Turnbull, Vineyard Selection 67. Color deeper and much richer than the Diamond Creek. A bit of an opulent nose in comparison: bursting with red fruit with a slight lift on the nose given the notes of mint and, yes, rosemary. Though the fruit lush on first sip, the wine turned clumsy in the mid-palate. Now called just Turnbull Wine Cellars.

Cali cabs plus an opener (on the right) and a closer

'86 Diamond Creek, Volcanic Hill. Restrained, yet incredibly beguiling and sophisticated on the nose. The palate did not disappoint and mirrored this profile. "Refined" and "elegant" were descriptors that my friend and I mutually agreed upon. Lighter in color and body than the JT, yet structured and complex, and the finish seemed endless. During the meal in which it was a perfect match to the veal. Both of these wines harken back to an era when CA Cabernets were, generally speaking, low(er) alcohol wines and restrained wine-making styles. I miss this style of CA wines. We kept refilling our glasses more readily with the DC. The Volcanic Hill is the largest of the Diamond Creek vineyards/holding, thought to be the warmest site and often making the longest lived wines.

'95 Jurançon from Domaine Cauhapé finished the evening with strawberries and mint cream.

Veal Chops with Rosemary butter

Pan roasted, rosemary-rubbed veal Chops. "Steakhouse salad" - Iceberg lettuce and Blue Cheese dressing.

Summer sup...

2010-06-22T22:20:00.000-07:00

An evening of some light summer fare and fun wines (w/ friend Gregory C).

Menu: Soba noodles with asparagus spears, crispy prosciutto and topped with egg and marinated shrimp. Side of roasted candy-stripe beets tossed with walnuts and crumbled goat cheese.

Wines: Started the eve with a simple French sparkling wine, a Crémant de Limoux from J. Laurens. In the past, not one of my favorite appellations for Crémant. To me there are other over-achieving producers and regions (such as Crémant d'Alsace). This one had none of the off-flavors or rustic notes I associate with Limoux (and the use of too much of the Mauzac grape). Most likely Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, the wine was a perfect summer apéritif.
'92 Chassagne-Montrachet, Pillot. Crazy how fresh this wine still was. Vibrant acidity marked nicely with notes of toasted brioche. It kept getting better in the glass even though it had also been decanted for two hours. Terrific with the buckwheat noodles and the touch of saltiness in the dish from the prosciutto.
'06 Morgon, Marcel Lapierre. This is one of those wines that excites and confounds me. A serious wine from a serious producer in Beaujolais; quite well know as a proponent of bio-dynamic farming and wine-making I believe. It was lovely with the earthiness of the noodles and the protein from the egg. The wine is taut: this exciting tension of black and red fruits fruits; stoney black plums and brambly raspberries and blackberries strung in a masculine way along a backbone of irrepressive minerality. That the world has such a different impression of Beaujolais than the great ones that come from there, pisses me off!

Ended with Gregory's apricot tarte with honey sweetened yogurt topping.

Friends that share...that dare

2010-06-14T23:17:00.000-07:00

You know one of the truly great joys that I derive from being involved with the culture of wine has been the active, incredible level of sharing that goes on among friends. Equally touching has been the desire of many of my friends to learn more than they had previously known about wine. Some of these friends freely admit the secret pleasure of learning while dining at my place or having me to their places because of the wines that I will share. I have often been told that friends had a chance to try wines that they had never tasted or even heard of. (I have also been very fortunate to dine at friends and be part of some magnanimous sharing of wines on their part!)

Several friends, upon receiving a poured wine, will quickly stick their noses into their glasses and start describing their sensory perception, anxious to be correct in their descriptors. Equally, they are willing to learn new descriptors and uncover smells and flavors that had not occurred to them. Truly, the joys of friendship and a real bonus to my chosen profession are these moments of enriching each other’s lives with an experience we are all open to having.

Some of these friends (well, those less wine-centric or in the wine industry) have voiced concern and/or fears over the years of showing up at my place with wine. Fear of? Choosing the “wrong” wine? Picking a “bad” wine? I, however, love it when they bring wine. Bring it on, I say. More than anything else, I enjoy gaining insight into what they like. As we all know, something you like, such as a painting, a model of car, a vegetable, etc, may be something others do not share an appreciation for. The same can easily be said for wine, perhaps to an even greater degree. My mantra, by the way, when asked “the best wine” question, is “the wine that you like”.

I truly enjoy cooking and entertaining, and to be frank, I refer to my meals as simple. Hopefully my meals are flavorful but simple and stay within the limits of my culinary abilities. So, I wanted to share two recent occasions where friends ventured into the terrifying, uncharted territory of bringing wine to my place for dinner, sharing with me wines that they thought would be appropriate with what I was preparing. These occasions were just gems of simple dinners, fun wines and enlightening experiences.

The menu: Freshly ground pork burgers, bound together with finely chopped fennel and garlic. Corn-on-the-cob.

Wine: 2009 Moulin de Gassac Rouge, “Guilhem”. I had to look this up: this wine turned out to be made with the typical blend of grapes from the southern region of France: Syrah (30%), Grenache (30%), Carignan (25%), Cinsault (15%). The wine-maker that oversees this project, a line of Vin de Pays de l’Herault wines, is Aimé Guilbert, winemaker/owner of Domaine Mas Daumas Gassac, a wine that I know and like alot.

The vibrant fruit and youthful ripe tannins and playful acidity made it a perky companion to the burgers. Way to go!

(Coincidentally, I don’t know if my friend knew, but this is the same label as my most recent potential candidate for “Rosé of the Summer 2010"!)

Dinner: Home-made pesto with sun-dried tomatoes and chicken. Store bought antipasti

Wine:

Wine: 2009 Crnko, “Jarenincan”. Say that three times! The wine turns out to be produced in Croatia from a blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. Ok, ok, yes, I will admit my initial temptation to judge the wine (harshly, lol) when I saw the liter bottle with a crown/bottle cap closure. Man, was I wrong! The wine was refreshing, flavorful and composed in its structure, supported by only 11% alcohol! Now that’s a feat. In my eyes, given the flavor profile and lack of any sort of greenness that might imply an early harvest to keep the sugars in check, this was a triumph in blending the right grapes for flavor and ripeness. It was terrific with pesto and especially memorable with pieces of grilled eggplant that had been marinated in balsamic. Before we knew it that (bigger) bottle was empty and we didn’t feel the least bit tipsy. Try that at home with a bottle of California Chardonnay at 14.5% alcohol!

My friends enjoyed the “challenge” as they call it, and I enjoyed some wines that I had never heard of or tasted before! OK, friends, “bring it on” I am ready for round three, lol.

I love friends that go to Paris for a long week-end and don't come back empty-handed!

2010-06-07T22:21:00.000-07:00

Have you had one of these recently: drinking a wine that will not be easily forgotten?

2010-06-07T20:09:00.000-07:00

One of my most transcedental wine-drinking moments of recent memory:

1992 FX Pichler's Durnsteiner Kellerberg, Riesling, Smargd, Halbtrocken

Francois Mikulski in his cuvery at the beginning of the 2009 harvest

2010-06-06T08:57:00.000-07:00

There has been alot of hype regarding the 2009 vintage in France, especially now with the Bordeaux futures campaign underway. So here are some of the first thoughts on the vintage as I interview Francois on the second day of harvest in September. He explains the growing season in Burgundy and why in particular in '09 it had lead up to a very promising vendage/harvest in Meursault.

Video and photos from (working) harvest, Meursault, France 2009

2010-05-26T16:45:00.000-07:00

Summer

2010-05-25T14:20:00.000-07:00

(This rose in particular may qualify as my choice of the summer 2010! Though not of the typical (Provencal) blend that I prefer: Cinsault, Grenchache, Mourvedre, Syrah etc, this wine beautifully walks a fine line between pleasant and easy-drinking and a substantial wine suitable for a meal. Overseen by the man behind Mas Daumas Gassac, Aime Guibert, this is his Vin de Pays l'Herault project. Made from 55% Syrah and 45% Grenache and held in Stainless steel for a 5-6 month elevage.)

Colors alone, their many shades, from pale salmon to terra cotta, are guaranteed to induce a smile.

Snappy crispness of the old world or the fresh abundant fruit of the new, always allure.

Your country of your origin is moot; you are drawn to my lips.

Aromas redolent of wild strawberries, brambly raspberries, earth and crushed stones; entice me, I can't put you down.

Sunshine in a glass

I know thy name is Rosé.

Los Angeles

2010-05-23T00:07:00.000-07:00

It's near midnight as I drive on I-405 and pass the exit for Mulhollland Dr. I crest the hill and begin the descent into the the Valley.

The land scape on the other side of Los Angeles sprawls in front of me;

i feel alive.

Incomprehensible.

Incomparably expansive.

I feel close to the character in Didion's "Play it as it Lays", drawn mysteriously to late night drives on the freeways of LA

I am home.

LA Restaurants/Spots

2010-05-19T17:14:00.000-07:00

So, I had the chance last night to stop in to the relatively new restaurant "Delphine" at the W Hotel in Hollywood. I love checking out new places, with high hopes, but this experience turned out to be rather a funny one.

The hotel entrance and lobby are splashy, and as far as modern hotels go, do yourself a favor and stop by as they warrant a "need to be seen". The grand staircase, carpeted in red, certainly makes for an impressive Hollywood-style entrance from a mezzanine area and the oval Naugahyde couch set near the black front desk is dramatic as well. The sunken lobby lounge was jumpin' as was the outdoor patio lounge. We had agreed however to meet at the bar inside the restaurant. The shift in scenery was dramatic. The restaurant, which bills itself with a "French/Mediterranean brasserie menu" had the resultant feel of an up-scale brasserie-theme restaurant in Disneyland.

I will readily admit that an experience at a bar having a glass of wine is not at all an indication of the capabilities of a restaurant. BUT on the other hand, it can have the affect that it did; that of not being particularly inspired to return.

After being given a cocktail menu when seated at the bar (what is it with bars in restaurants lately that do not present you with the wine-by-the glass list? Here, and recently, Lucques as well. More money made on cocktails?) My friend and I were both confused, and frankly, put off , by the “Les Vins: Verre et Carafe" given that we would prefer to know what we are ordering, for list that literally reads as follows:

Blanc

Bordeaux

Riesling

Pinot Grigio

Sauvignon Blanc

Chardonnay

You get the idea.

The bartender kindly struggled verbally through the list of the "actual" wines being served. She defended he choice of not naming the wines on the list as the opportunity for management to change the selection frequently (which warrants the “oh, uh huh” from both of us. As if no other restaurant changes their selection regularly and that printers haven't been invented yet?). I'm guessing that in some way it is sticking with a low-brow brasserie theme.

We ordered a carafe of Bordeaux blanc. The bartender more or less, said, “huh? we don't have carafes. Do you mean you want a glass or a half bottle?” "No under the “Les Vins: Verre et Carafe", a carafe, please." (The wines are listed $11/$26 accordingly for the glass and carafe prices). We pointed to the carafe prices. That got the old, “...oh, umm, ok, umm, sure”

The presentation included a carafe of wine, a glass half full of wine, and a glass with a small amount, a "taster" portion, of wine. ok, ok, just go with it. After making our way through this carafe of mediocre Bordeaux blanc we switched to refreshing glasses of Hoegaarden Witbier (wheat beer) and set forth on a strategy to find a better place to meet again for a glass of wine.

My new favorite cocktail for the summer...or anytime...

2010-05-17T15:06:00.000-07:00

A simple twist on one that I read about in a recent Food and Wine magazine called the "Southside Royale". Instead of topping with Champagne (to me, always a waste when using in cocktails), I used a rosé sparkler; a Crémant de Bourgogne. I think that the modification improved the resultant presentation of the drink:
Fill cocktail shaker with ice
2 oz of Gin
3/4oz of both simple syrup and fresh lime juice
Shake 'til chilled.
Strain into a flute and top with sparkler and garnish with sprig of mint.

Intro to the WineGuyLA Video-blog series with a brief, but fun video of the Western Regional Barista competition (Feb 26-28th, LA).

2010-04-05T23:12:00.000-07:00

Travelogue: Restaurants, hotels and wine drinking moments

2010-03-18T14:03:00.000-07:00

To fill-in a bit on the previous Paris post, here are some notes from this past fall written while traveling through France and Spain.

Burgundy/Beaune

Had only a few opportunities on this trip to visit some restaurants in Burgundy; work was of the order. I did visit two that i had not been to before, and for the first time in the past 6 years did not make it to Ma Cuisine, a must for most visiting Beaune. But on that note, it seems that many die-hard fans are growing weary of the, well let's be honest, obnoxiously slow beverage service there. It feels that in some pathologically way that the owner Fabian goes to great strides to avoid timely and quality wine service, and in turn seems to enjoy the pain that he inflicts on anxious and thirsty diners . Those of you that have been there know what i mean. Most of us flock there for the depth, breadth and pricing of the list. But it feels that there is a back-lash brewing among the legions of fans. I heard it murmured more than once on this trip the voice of final discontent with this Burgundy/Beaune landmark.

Caveau des Arches in Beaune - Historic setting below street level; a cool subterranean resto. One of the few places open in the summer on Thursday evenings; the place was buzzing. So, as always in France, be sure to call for a reservations. I truly felt that the pricing was very in line with the food (ie prices were very reasonable and food good). The table settings, the ambiance and service give up far more for the money. In the end, one does get allot for what you pay. IWGB! (I would go back). Francois did a great job picking from the list:

Auberge des Vignes (on the RN 74 just outside, and considered in Volnay) - A bit of a warm and cozy farm-house setting. Decent food, cozy, setting - WGBIP - Would go back, in a pinch.

The travels beyond the Cote d'Or begin:

Hotel des Savoies, Lyon, France - Though listed in the Michelin Guide rouge with the symbol, "Quite Comfortable", it was a dump; must be the new meaning of that icon. Seriously, there was only one electrical outlet in the room and it was in the light fixture above the mirror in the bathroom. Imagine the logistics of charging one's laptop there! Perhaps the only redeeming note was a the garage attached for 9 euros a night; I suppose an inner-city luxury.

Cafe de la Fountain, Loumarins, France. I had to be told how swanky Loumarins is, as i hadn't a clue. Bit of a Provencal retreat for the rich and famous of France, England and one hears US; loads of celebrities spotted there. Anyway really great lunch place in the center of the village on one of the many meandering cobblestone side streets. It serves up Corsican fare with a focus on grilled meats at dinner. Lunch served up fresh and delicious ingredients, large portions and fair prices. Corsican wines, beers (including one that i tried flavored with a hint of chestnut, i will reserve my comment) and liquers.

Hotel La Ferme, Avignon, France - outside te walls of the city of Avignon. Though the brochure states that it is only 5 km from the walls of the ancient city walls, one an island in the river, it felt further. However, if you are game, this place is really a great treat. Its quiet, located in a pastoral setting; it was a bit of an over-achiever. As it was really great to sit on the patio sipping Provencal rose, be given the menu to look over and when ready, meander into the dining room. Almost felt like an experience at one of the "starred" hotel/restaurants in the French country-side. Except this is the budget version, no bells and whistles, and acceptable/pleasant service and food. The room was 67 euros and a four course dinner was 23 euros. After dinner, satiated, i just wandered up to the room with the remainder of the wine in my glass.

Hotel le Guilhaume d'Orange, Saint Guilhaume le Desert, France - This is one of those out-of the-way destination that you need to make an excuse and visit. If you are ever in Montpelier and feel adventuresome, head northwest into the hills. The last part of the drive before you get to the village is spectacular. The setting of this medieval village is along a gorge in the hills, well mountains, and is considered to be part of the wine region known as the l'Herault. For those of you wine geeks, i passed signs for several known producers on the way or near-by: Mas Daumas Gassac and Granges des Peres.

I have been coming to France for 20 years and this little hotel had so much character, one of the cutest that i have ever stayed. Nice rooms, pleasant staff, a terrace for dining, and all in the amazing location of a medieval village. I think that i paid 67euros a few weeks ago. Plus, if not for the wine, there is much to do: hiking, canoeing in the gorge and visiting the 13th century village and church. WGBIHB - Would Go back in a Heart Beat.

Restaurant Villa Mas - Branes, Spain. OK, this may well be the Ma Cuisine of the Costa Brava. I am tempted to say in writing that it is worth the trip on several levels. The setting is in this lovely coastal town, the fresh seafood is outstanding, and the wine list is absolutely incredible. To top it off, the list, though Burgundy-centric, is broad and deep in it's coverage of important world wine regions. That said, it also has the most unbelievable prices (I drank '04 Ravenneau, Blanchots for 55 euros and '89 Meursault Genevrieres, Francois Jobard for 65 euros. Lafon '06 Meursault was priced at 50 euros). The list is thorough and you will spend most of your time trying to decide what you should order from the wine list! WGBIHB!

San Sebastian, Spain
Though the region is perhaps known more recently as the most happening culinary spot in the world, I would go back for the traditional pinxtos bars (tapas). Thought of as the region that fine-tuned this cuisine or style/tradition of eating, this city seems to have it down. I ate more tasty dishes and morsels of food in two days than i have eaten in LA in the last 5 years. Oops, was that catty? But then again many of you know my feelings on the restaurant scene, or lack of it, in LA.

The bars not to miss -

"Gandarias" - I found it to be the best food, the most serious and focused approach to a wine program, and the most organized and noticeably professional in it's embrace of the concept. The only bar where i found a "cuvinet" filled with interesting, as well as high quality, Spanish wines being offered. Visited twice including a must "gotta go again before I leave" visit on the way out of town on Sunday morning.

"Le Puente Negra" - probably my most favorite as i came to think of it as a wine bar that served pinxtos. Cool clientele, a mix of ages, and seemingly those more serious about food and wine. (Here's the crazy part though, I loved watching people conscientiously sniffing their glasses while puffing on a cigarette and exhaling the smoke!) The plates here were creative takes on the typical small dishes and a close tie for the best ones that i ate. Stopped in twice, once late night for the atmosphere and a nightcap.

"Le Cepa" - famous with a well deserved reputation. Second on my list, but with that acceptable bedlam nature that goes with the environment. No serious wines of note; stick to a glass or two of Txakoli or beer.

All of the above would qualify as WGBIHB!

"Gastronomic" restaurant at Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao, Spain- This place tries way to hard to live up to it's reputation, given that is in the management group of famed Michelin three-star chef, Martin Berasategi (a gastronomic destination in San Sebastian). The young chef here, Josean Martinez Alija may feel the pressure of his famous boss, but here in Bilbao, it just didn't work for me. The restaurant is small, perhaps 16 seats, service was crisp and professional for this level of resto, but perhaps a bit to rushed for my taste. Dishes were, in concept, very creative. But for example this beautiful starter of grilled melon and cucumber fell incredibly flat; i felt that I have tasted better cucumber in CA. The lead up to the final savory course of my 5 course tasting menu was "Thoughts of lamb". The sommelier was encouraging me to move onto to a red to go with the dish. So i did, an '02 Rioja, Riserva from Ysios. The dish comes and it is three tiny morsels of lamb brains, frankly a tough dish to pair, but not good at all with red. I was hoping that that there were more thoughts of lamb coming, but i finally got the joke. WGB - Won't Go back.

Restaurant Philippe, Biarritz, France - Another Michelin Guide Rouge dis-connect. The guide give this interesting and creative restaurants one (out of five) lousy red "fourchette". This was easily one of the more interesting settings and meals that i have had in France in the past 5 years. It is a small restaurant filled with what may appear to some as a hodge-podge of "contemporary art" or "design art" pieces; I loved it. Of particular note to myself and my dining companion was the giant glowing lucite orb at the front door and the 15 foot lucite, peg-o-lite partition. We sat on this comfy L-shaped 60's couch dining on a low-lying table. The food is creative and plates playful and themselves well-designed. Must say that one of the signature dishes that i veered off the day's tasting menu to try, the "couchon du lait" was worth the detour. It was probably one of the best pieces of pork (well suckling pig) that i have had in quite some time. Drank a brooding '05 Coteaux du Languedoc from Olivier Jullien, "Les Etats d'Ames". WGBA - Would go back again.

Favorite thing (s) to do in Paris

2009-11-26T01:34:00.000-08:00

Bread and Roses: I simply don't know why, as it is a relatively simple place, but I always enjoy stopping by whenever I am in Paris. I would say that is a guilty pleasure, but one can think of Paris as one big guilty pleasure.

The food here is fresh, interesting and the dishes well executed, especially for breakfast and lunch. The setting is bright and pleasant, and in a good way, remind me of a pretty neighborhood Upper East Side restaurant in it's feel. B&R is great for late afternoon coffee or tea as well as take-away from their, "deli" counter. But prepare your wallet for sticker shock, though it is Paris, they are not shy here on the pricing for breads and/or their meals and products It has been one of the neighborhood/cafe-level places that has been on the forefront of attention to detail and high-quality organic ingredients in the past few years. The are now many restaurants, vendors at the markets and countless products in the grocery stores that hype their "bio" (ie. organic) products. Ok, but let me be honest and say that the reason that i do stop in is their killer scones! Soft, flaky and served with fresh (whipped) cream, a pad of Echiré butter and confitures. Accompanied by black tea, or a cup of Illy coffee (possible the best espresso you may get in the city as well) and a rainy afternoon in Paris does not get better!

Another stop that is on my list, as a bit of a treat, is head to one of the grand hotels for tea service. Around the world i have found this to be one of the greatest ways, for lack of a better description, to get a taste of the luxury that great hotels offer in their settings and service. This time i headed for the Le Meurice on the Rue de Rivoli directly across from the Louvre; so a nice place to reward yourself after a visit there.

I will keep this brief given the recent visit there wasn't the best. The hotel is historic and the setting of the lobby bar and lounge area stunning. The offering of teas and the descriptions in the menu card are quite interesting. They range from mint and infusions to exotic blends from China and India. Service here is crisp and professional. To go with my “Marco Polo” tea I ordered the “scones a la maison”, more out of curiosity to compare to my love of those at Bread and Roses. Unfortunately, given the setting my expectatiations they were no where near as good as the former (the quality seemed store-bought and not house-made). They were neither fluffy (I can accept) nor flaky (which I love and more or less expect in a scone). Given their texture as they cooled, I inquired (gently) of how they were heated (ie microwave or oven). Repying oven heating, he handled the question in stride and offered a replacement scone or a pastry. Having started my day with hot chocolate and pastries at the famed “Angelina” down the street i declined. However, from that point on, the French waiter's game of one-up-man-ship game reared it's ugly head. He never approached the table again nor cleared the table for an hour. I'm sure in his mind this is appropriate, rather prideful behavior, but to the rest of the world, a silly game. Unfortunate twist to an otherwise lovely afternoon.

However, I made up for it afterward by visiting the Museé des Arts Decoratifs across the street. I continue to believe this is one of the most interesting, well presented museum environments in Paris (the current exhibit of an hommage to the posters of Toulouse-Lautrec is laid-out in "salles" with brushed aluminum walls). It can be a welcomed distraction to the monumental scale of and when taking in the historic art in many of the other museums!

A new addition to my "will visit again" list is a restaurant that i stumbled upon in my wanderings through the city, simply called, “Kitchen” in English (guess there is a theme to this post). In this case, a small narrow section of Rue Gravilliers in the 3rd Arrondisement. The reason that I'll stop again is that is a welcomed relief to the otherwise heavy food one faces each meal here in France. A light, easy lunch is not something that is all that easy to find in Paris or for that matter, France. And did i mention inexpensive? Check your expectations at the door re: comfort and plop down at one of the communal tables on the low stools or bar-stools. Peruse the menu on the wall and order. It's all vegetarian and flavorful: salad "boxes" and salad bowls. I tried the pad saté box-salad (literally comes in one of those white take out boxes used universally by Chinese restaurants). Many diners around me were enjoying the soups (lentil or leek the day that i stopped in) or the "Futomaki", wraps of tofu or avocado. Wash it all down with a super clean and refreshing mango or green smoothie, or the drink i tried which was a "cocktail" of apples, pears, ginger, and fennel. Satiated, but not booged down by a heavy lunch, i was up for the challenge of another museum visit!

France and its Agro-economy

2009-11-23T15:55:00.000-08:00

I am now near the end of my journey here in France/Europe. Once back in the states I will edit and then post some of the interesting videos that I shot during the past few months of wine travel. As well, I will begin again to blog on current observations, experiences and general ramblings. Here then is a recent moment from one of my final weeks in France when i ventured outside my home-base of Paris one last time into the heart-land, or "France Profonde" :

I am rather fascinated by France and it being one big piece of farm-land; its quite amazing actually. Once one is beyond, and often within, the perimeters of most big cities, the landscape quickly morphs into fields, vineyards or cattle grazing pastures. Besides the fact that it is a country and culture where food and the act of eating play an important role, it is also a country that seemingly enjoys quality food products and easy access to them.

Recently while driving from St-Malo to Mont-Sainte-Michel on the coast of Brittany i spied a farmer in the field. From a distance I was transfixed by the one-man-show operation. He was cutting the crop (cauliflower), placing it on a conveyor belt attached to a truck, jumping onto the truck-bed to pack the heads into wooden cases for shipment; alone in his endeavors. I pulled over on the side of the road and, after asking his permission, took some photos. At a certain point he stopped what he was doing to join me and talk a bit. The conversation was fun and informative even in my halting French. I invited him to join my for a little “repas” as I had just bought oysters, crevettes, cheese as well as some wine in St-Malo. Unfortunately he needed to keep working and knew that rain was approaching.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh08l0zNx4k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEg2JjrxwZc

Coffee Kulture

2009-10-06T13:42:00.000-07:00

Since my last post regarding the quality of the coffee in Spain versus France, I have been travelling through Italy.

Italy, as in Spain, is still quite conscientiously taking their coffee seriously. Most everywhere restaurants, tabacs, corner bars serve up delicious hand-pulled espresso. The poor quality and lack of attention coupled with the prevalence of "Nespresso" machines has been the death-knell to coffee in France. To my amazement obviously the French people themselves are compliant with the decline.

Check out the pic; to my delight the wonderful coffee being served at a highway gas fuel stop (along with the beer and wine on tap!)

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Harvest Report 2009, a report from the field

2009-10-01T13:47:00.000-07:00

Ok, so to say that I am a little behind in this update would be an understatement. The demands and the excitement of the travels can be distracting. On some days it is just a matter of having internet access. On others, it is a matter of choice of deciding whether or not give up the opportunity to live the moment rather than blog. I feel now a bit more relaxed after harvest and having started the travel portion of my journey, it feels like a good moment to catch up.

Realizing that this may be a longer post than you have any interest in reading, i will try to make it engaging with pics and/or entertaining. So let's start with a re-cap of what i observed about the '09 harvest in various appellations in Europe during my recent travels.

Harvest 2009 - Burgundy, Northern Rhone, Southern Rhone, Cote de Provence, Cote de Roussillon,

As mentioned in one of the previous posts, for the most part, vignerons in the Cote d'Or were expressing various degrees of exteme contentment. For the most part, all seem to fluctuate between very high expectations about the quality to overall satisfaction with what should be a good vintage. It was an early harvest by all accounts, almost 10 days so. Sugar levels in the Cote de Beaune had risen and were hovering just around 13% potential alcohol by the 5th of September and ph's were healthy. By the 16th or 17th many in the Cote de Beaune had finished; more often the typical start dates of harvest. Those that started on the later side did so in the rain as it had begun to rain over the week-end and into Monday the 14th. The rain was not of any significance to be of concern to the vignerons, just worse harvesting conditions than the week prior.

From all accounts that Cote de Nuits began the week-end of the 12th/13th and starting earnestly during the week of the 14th; it was raining there on Monday and Tuesday (14th and 15th). I was told however that by Friday the 18th there was probably still over 30% of the Grand Cru still to be picked.

I'm well aware of the pitfalls and risks of the world and the press, well and perhaps the vignerons themselves, to be quick to judge a vintage; it seems everyone wants to be known as the first to comment. Anyway, by all accounts '09 should be a good one to very good one.

I will soon upload a few video interviews with some vignerons that discuss the vintage. Check out the videos with Pascal Marchand and Olivier Merlin as they compare their experiences with the '08 vintage. Compared to others, Pascal shares some of the difficulties that he had with the '09 vintage and also draws a comparison to '96.

Vallee du Rhone - Northern
When I passing through on the week of September 20th I was unable to arrange any visits as many vignerons had stopped harvesting because it had begun to rain. A blessing to many as it had been a very hot and dry summer, perhaps too much so, grapes had very little volume and some plants had begun to shut down because of the heat. So the rain came with anticipation of helping a bit and perhaps bringing moisture and volume back into the berries.

Southern - Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Visiting on September 21st they were a day or two away from completion. Also, varying (high)levels of contentment about the vintage there.

Cotes de Provence, Luberon - Visit to Chateau Fontvert in LourmarinVisiting on the 22nd they were still bringing some reds in, late ripening Mourvedre etc.

Cote de Roussillon - Visit to Domaine Oliver Pithon, Calce, France on September 23rd. Most of the reds had been brought in by the previous Monday, the 14th, so all were in tanks. The comment was that it appears to be a really promising vintage for the reds.

Spain - North of Barcelona and Rioja - Visiting around the 25th of September they had not yet begun harvesting the Tempranillo. Harvest starts when the grapes are ripe, but in general it starts/occurs within the first weeks of October.

Barolo - On October 1st many had completed or were near completing the harvest of the white grapes. While at the winery of G.D. Vajra in Barolo, the Dolcetto grapes and Barbera grapes were almost all harvested. Though it was reported that some vignerons had started on the Nebbiolo harvest, here they would wait for another week or two.

Recap: Bonus wines moments while working harvest

2009-10-01T13:43:00.000-07:00

First, let me just say that it is an incredible experience spending time around wine-makers and vigerons during harvest or on a personal level as they are so frequent to generously open bottles.

During harvest with Francois Mikulski as a matter of practice, during dinner he opened bottles of wines from previous vintages of the vineyard that we picked that day. So for example, on the first day of picking whites (chardonnay), we had harvested in Les Poruzots, a stony vineyard mid-slope in Meursault. That evening he opened bottles '04; an incredibly fun and insightful exercise in learning about the characteristics of a vineyard and the wine made from that vineyard.
So over the two weeks that I spent at Domaine Mikulski, I had the opportunity to taste the following wines, all Meursault in 750mls, except when mentioned. (Decided that I won't go on with any detailed tasting notes, but hit me up if you want to talk about any of them):

'04 Meursault, Caillerets (rouge) and '04 Volnay Santentots du Milieu
'04 Poruzots
'05 Charmes
'99 Volnay, Santentots du Milieu
'01 Pommard
'99 Genevrieres
'06 Goutte d'Or
'97 Poruzots in magnum
'03 Volnay Santenots
'03 Bourgogne rouge en magnum and '95 Bourgogne rouge

La Paulee dinner - '99 Charmes en magnum, '96 Meursault en magnum, '99 Aloxe Corton rouge en magnum (Marie-Pierre Germain-Mikulski negoc label), '02 Volnay Santenots en magnum, '01 Pommard en magnum.

Coffee: France vs Spain

2009-09-27T09:04:00.001-07:00

Given that I have noticed the decline in the quality of coffee within France's cafe culture during the past 10 years, I am going on record stating that Spain has way better coffee! Vive cafe cortado!
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The mid-morning break or "casse-croute"

2009-09-17T00:34:00.000-07:00

After about two or three hours in the vineyard, a morning break would be taken. Necessity being the mother of invention, one of the most satisfying creation that a fellow cutter or "couper" turned me onto was as pictured. Literally, a "pain au chocolate"; a piece of chocolate placed between a cut bagette to go with one's coffee!

The 2009 harvest and the vineyards of Meursault

2009-09-15T04:55:00.000-07:00

During the 2009 harvest here in Burgundy, by all accounts the weather has been outstanding. It began for some as early as last Sunday September 5th, as it was for us picking for Domaine Mikulski here in the village of Meursault. This being almost 10 days ahead of say a "typical" harvest date, the result of early flowering (harvest begins 100 days after). For most villages here in the Cote de Beaune, word is that harvest should be completed by Wednesday or Thursday the 16th and 17th.

We started on the 5th picking the reds first (Pinot Noir) as the sugars showed levels close to 13% potential alcohol. In the morning work began in Volnay, Les Santentots. After lunch we finished with Meursault, Les Caillerets, a small, relatively rare parcel within this AOC that is planted with Pinot Noir. It was interesting to compare to Santentots, as it contained many more of the small calcareous stones (the "cailloux"), and the soil itself was much more red in color (most likely from the higher content of iron). The top layer of soil is thinner as well than that of Santentots and the risk, when not picked in a timely fashion, is that the berries can begin to dry up from lack of water.

The week proceeded with the following schedule harvesting in several "lieu dits" as well as some of the great premier cru vineyards of Meursault: Monday, "Les Poruzots" and bourgogne rouge. Tuesday, "Les Charmes" Vieille Vignes. Wednesday, "Les Genevrieres". Thursday, "Goutte d'Or", Chaumes des Narvaux, Les Meiux Chavaux, and Le Limozin. Friday, "Les Charmes", young vines. Friday and all of Saturday was spent picking old vine Gamay and Aligote grapes.

It was an enlightening experience being in the vineyards, or shall I say "on the ground", seeing up close the character of each vineyard. They are all ones that i know well from the finished product in the bottle. Each one was different: from its location or slope of a hill, the ground under foot, to the amount of or lack of stones mixed with the soil.

The Magic of Burgundy

2009-09-13T07:32:00.000-07:00

I think in part starts with the people. Long routed in the history of France (including at one point the region was a separate "duchy" ruled by the Dukes of Burgundy, then annexed by France in 1477); historic, the region and those that live here are firmly seated in France's (present) agro-economy.

I have worked this week with an incredible group of people. Granted that many are friends and relatives of the owner of the Domaine (ie estate), it has been a time of great fun, comraderie and laughter. Everyone seemed to approach harvest time working hard, laughing (before, during and after the daily grind), and eating well; a certain joie de vivre seems the way of life here.

I have also had an "ah ha" moment this week. I have come to recognize and apprecriate the level of respect they (seemingly) have for one another. This includes not texting or answering cell phones during a conversation or a meal. I hope that my friends will not mind that when i return i will apply these principals and set some boundaries when engaging with people and they with me!

The Art of the Cut

2009-09-10T15:22:00.000-07:00

So, it was my first or second day of picking grapes here in burgundy. With no guidance, i am handed a bucket and a pair of "secateurs" (think pruning shears). Oh, nice accessories but no pair of Crocs? So, we are assigned a row of vines. It felt a little like a chain gang or work crew, as between the vines a fellow "vendangeur" is whispering helpful hints in wonderful French accents.   "Daveed, you must quickly rip away the leaves to get a good view of zee grapes.  Zen get in there and snip, snip and fill zee bucket." "Thanks", i whispered back.
These are vines in full "bloom", lush with fresh green leaves, so i tear away. "Not zo much, you need to get to zee snipping more fast" i am advised again between the vines.  I go at it, snip, snip. It's quite clear that this is not going to be easy as it's not all that evident where the bunches (in French "grape") are attached. But snip i do.

I feel something and hear a snip that doesn't sound quite like the rest of my cuts; I then notice something small fall from the tip of my secateurs. "Ah, geeezzuss, my finger tip!" i murmur, blood starts to drip from my hand. Whoa, close call, it turns out that it was a single grape that fell and not my fingertip Relieved that it is a surface cut, I suck the blood, apply pressure till the bleeding stops. A fellower cutter asks if i need help.  Fearing the ridicule of the foreman/chef and wanting to maintain my honor, i decline! My red t-shirt helps alot.

Lesson one, don't snip where you can't see.
Oh, and lesson two: don't look up.  The vineyards are rather big and that's a long row you gotta hoe.

The launch....the beginning

2009-08-31T16:09:00.000-07:00

Since this is my virginal venture into the blogosphere, think of of this first post as a rough version of the blog that I will polish over time and through my travels!

Many of you know that I recently left my job of 7 years as sales director of a fine wine import company. So, here I am in France doing something that i have always thought of doing (perhaps we all have a list or two!); living here, which happened to be at the top of the list. I started my stay by choosing to work the 2009 harvest in the Burgundy region of France (Southeast of Paris and famous for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay).

I will start blogs this week sharing what it has been like to pick grapes in specific vineyards in one of the most fanous wine (and may i add, food) regions of the the world. Sounds fun right?

Also, i am going to use the time as well to travel to the other classic Old World wine regions. Having passed my Advanced portion of the Master Sommelier exam last year, and hoping to be invited/to sit for the Masters exam next year, a big part of this trip is aimed at better preparing myself for that experience. After harvest i will set out for a few weeks on some travels; first up being the southern parts of France, and then Spain and then Italy. Back in Paris in October and November I will try as well to visit others such as Germany and Austria. Along the way i plan on drinking some wine, make some friends and finding time for a meal or two!

So if yinz ain't got nothin better to read and don't mind a feed of yet another blog, as Lakeside sang in their (only?) disco hit, "Come along and ride on the fantastic voyage!

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